menu facebook twitter instagram pinterest youtube search chevron-down chevron-up
Be My Travel Muse
  • About
    • About
    • Contact Me
    • Press
    • Work With Me
  • Blog
    • Archives
    • Best of BMTM
  • YouTube
  • Solo Female Travel
    • Bucket List
      • The 31 Cheapest Places to Travel in 2025
      • 31 BEST Places in the USA for Solo Female Travelers in 2025
      • 25 Unexpectedly Awesome Destinations for Solo Female Travelers
      • 25 Best Countries to Travel Alone for the First Time
      • 13 Perfect Weekend Trips for Solo Female Travelers in the USA
      • 10 Best Weekend Trips from Phoenix, Arizona
    • Resources
      • How to take the best travel selfies
      • 41 safety tips for solo female travelers
      • The ultimate solo female travel guide
      • Best group tours for solo female travelers
      • Why Every Woman Should Travel Alone
    • All solo female travel blogs
  • Be My Travel Muse
  • Tours
  • Destinations
    • USA
      • Hawaii
      • California
      • Nevada
      • Idaho
      • Arizona
      • Florida
      • Alaska
      • Utah
    • North America
      • Mexico
      • Costa Rica
      • Canada
    • Asia
      • Thailand
      • Philippines
      • Indonesia
      • Japan
    • South America
      • Argentina
      • Aruba
      • Chile
      • The Galápagos
    • Europe
      • Germany
      • Iceland
      • Italy
    • All Destinations
  • Trip Planning

The Astonishing Beauty of the Wild Coast in South Africa

02/17/2015 by Kristin Addis 21 Comments

The sea rolls in gentle, long waves on the rocks and sandbanks. By the grace of the moon, the water gracefully moves in and out as it always does.

We, an international group of spectators, one from California, one from Canada, one from South Africa and three from Germany, walk along the grassy cliffs, keeping time with the waves. Every so often, I can’t help but pause and admire while the boys carry on. I steal little moments to myself and take in long breaths.

I missed the sea so.

wild coast south africa
My hiking companions (and Buddha, the dog)

In a way I might be reminded of Ireland – what sits before me is so green and the sea so blue.

Then the impossibly bright sun bearing down on me and the reddening of my skin remind me, slather on the SPF, this is Africa.

The Wild Coast is located in the Eastern Cape, South Africa. Just like the Drakensberg Mountains I had just left, the area is covered in green grasses, and the sky somehow seems larger than I’ve ever seen it from anywhere else in the world I’ve stood.

wild coast south africa
I mean, wow
wild coast south africa
Full disclosure: I totally slipped and fell on these rocks while juggling cameras. Stood up and shook it off like Taylor Swift but you should see my legs

Populated by the Xhosa people, (you’ll notice the characteristic round houses), and the birthplace of Nelson Mandela, one need only spend a moment here to realize it’s something special.

Today we are hiking in Coffee Bay, a favorite amongst visitors to South Africa and the first time on this trip that I’ve encountered other travelers. So far it had mostly been locals I’d surrounded myself with in Johannesburg, and it was just Callum (my road trip buddy) and I making our way down the trails in the Free State.

wild coast south africa
Take it in, just for a moment

I have to stop and stretch my arms out in either direction from time to time in some futile effort to take it all in. I’m blown away by the beauty in front of me, as I have been over and over again the past few days in this country.

I don’t know what I expected from South Africa, but this kind of lush greenery isn’t what initially came to mind.

Lions and zebras? Maybe, but cows lounging on the sand? Not in a million years.

wild coast south africa
Happy cows come from the Transkei
wild coast south africa
Do you see them there on the sand?

It’s no surprise to me that hundreds of plants found here have homeopathic properties. It’s healing to me simply to wander through.

wild coast south africa
Sitting amongst giants. The rocks formations in Coffee Bay are quite a sight

We’re making the lengthy but enjoyable walk to the Hole in the Wall, a literal hole in a shale and sandstone rock.

It would probably have been quite easy and without event if we hadn’t listened to Callum, who decided to create some sort of “shortcut” out of a treacherously narrow and steep path in the side of the cliff.

Should, by some stroke of chance, you ever meet Callum, don’t let him make your hiking choices for you.

wild coast south africa
The poor dog was too scared to cross himself and thus had to be carried

Local legend has it that the Hole in the Wall was created when a young maiden and a sea person fell in love. With the help of a giant fish, the sea person cracked open the hole so that he could reach her. She was never seen again, though her echoes from the hole can be heard when the waves crash along the sides.

The local name for it is esiKhaleni – ‘the place of sound.’

wild coast south africa
The Hole in the Wall

The hole itself is interesting enough, but the real pleasure is in getting to it.

Can I plug in that saying, “it’s the journey, not the destination”? I can? Why thank you. 

wild coast south africa
Gorgeous

If you come to the Wild Coast, expect roads riddled with potholes. Know that sharks lurk in the rip-current waters. Trust that it is, indeed, wild.

That’s what makes it so wonderful, rugged, and appealing to someone like me.

Do it yourself:

  • If driving in, beware of the potholes, though a standard car can handle the roads without issue as long as you drive carefully
  • If bussing in, the nearest big town is Umtata. One can fly into Durban and bus with Baz Bus or intercity coaches (such as Greyhound) into Umtata. Coffee Shack and Bomvu Backpackers offer a shuttle service from the Shell Ultra City in Umtata.
  • I stayed at Coffee Shack but honestly liked the vibe better at Sugarloaf Backpackers just down the street. Best way to make a reservation is to call them: +27 47 575 2175
  • Hole in the Wall: From Coffee Bay, simply head toward the road and along the coastline, and you’ll reach the Hole in the Wall. You can’t miss it. Ask at Coffee Shack for the phone number of a driver to come back, or hitchhike along the road
Get the guidebook for solo female travelers!

About Kristin Addis

Kristin Addis is the founder and CEO of Be My Travel Muse, a resource for female travelers all around the world since 2012. She's traveled solo to over 65 countries and has brought over 150 women on her all-female adventure tours from Botswana to the Alaskan tundra.

« The Dr. Seuss Guide to Traveling and Following Your Dreams
7 Reasons to Visit South Africa, the Rainbow Nation »

Hello There!

headshot

Welcome to Be My Travel Muse, one of the top female travel blogs in the world, welcoming over 5 million readers annually.

I'm Kristin, and my vision of a better world is one where more women are empowered and living out their dreams. Solo traveling is the best method I've found to become the best, bravest version of me. This site is all about how YOU can have the adventure of a lifetime in an easy, fun, approachable way, so that you can feel empowered, too. Want to learn more about me?

Click here!

Get the Solo Female Travel Guidebook

Popular Posts

I am currently in:

The USA!

Check it out on Instagram Stories!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Comments

  1. Chris says

    02/18/2015 at 10:07 am

    I totally agree with you! Coffee Bay is simply amazing. Back in 2012/13 I spent six months in South Africa. Like you, I couldn’t help but turn around and snap a picture of this incredible scene: http://bit.ly/1JpQbof

    Fortunately, I took the time to shoot some video in Coffee Bay as well: http://vimeo.com/csmovie/tia4 (first 3 min.) and http://vimeo.com/csmovie/tia5 (from 4:30 )

    I really enjoy reading your posts, thanks for doing that!

    – Chris

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/18/2015 at 11:07 pm

      I got some video as well. Putting it together for a compilation video soonish 🙂

      Reply
  2. Jenia from HTL says

    02/18/2015 at 11:14 am

    wow, so beautiful – thank you for the inspiration 🙂

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/18/2015 at 11:06 pm

      Thank you for reading! <3

      Reply
  3. Kristin says

    02/18/2015 at 11:06 pm

    I would tend to agree. Definitely Rivals California, Ireland, and New Zealand.

    Reply
  4. travelFREAK says

    02/19/2015 at 4:29 am

    Coffee Bay is stunning! Thank you for sharing this beautiful set of photos Kristin!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/19/2015 at 4:38 am

      Thanks for the kind words Jeremy!

      Reply
  5. Rebekah says

    02/20/2015 at 6:52 am

    that looks so great. I was in south Africa when I was….11 I think. Its amazing and I’d like to go back as an adult at some point. Try to head up to Zambia if you get a chance- its amazing

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/20/2015 at 9:44 am

      Thanks for the suggestions. It’s in the plans!

      Reply
  6. Eva says

    02/20/2015 at 7:03 am

    Beautiful pictures! Everything seems so peaceful there. I’ve never been to South Africa but I have friends from around there and they all agree that it is gorgeous but rather dangerous. What do you think? Have you had any difficulties, in the cities or in the countryside?

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/20/2015 at 9:44 am

      I don’t feel like it’s as bad as it’s made out to be. I think it depends on how careful the individual is. There are muggings and car jackings but when I compare to LA – I wouldn’t walk many places there either, I certainly wouldn’t at night, I wouldn’t be flashy, etc. It’s not as safe as most of Asia is but, knock on wood, I’ve been fine.

      Reply
  7. Amanda says

    02/20/2015 at 4:48 pm

    Looks absolutely stunning! GUH, I really need to get myself to South Africa!

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/21/2015 at 12:42 pm

      I didn’t expect it to be like this. Definitely gorgeous

      Reply
  8. Ryan says

    02/21/2015 at 5:10 pm

    So so so so so incredible looking Kristin. So beautiful. You are single-handedly making me want to visit Africa this year, I need to find a way to make it happen. Hopefully your bruises have healed! In the second photo of the water, reminds me of Cape Reinga in New Zealand with the color of the water.

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      02/21/2015 at 10:54 pm

      I kept seeing similarities between NZ and SA as well. The constantly changing micro climates are present in both countries.

      Bruises have healed but my legs are covered in scars. Occupational hazard?

      Reply
  9. April says

    02/25/2015 at 11:22 pm

    Gorgeous photo’s Kristin! I love the Transkei – have been in SA for about 5 years and live in Chintsa – we go to the Kei for our holidays – there’s nothing quite like the barefoot relaxation, big blue skies, open ocean and lonely beaches. I always make a point of taking friends and family who visit me from the UK there too 🙂

    I agree with your travel suggests too although I personally wouldn’t take the hitch-hiking option – I would recommend having a plan to travel in/ through the Kei rather than winging it.

    Look forward to reading more!

    Reply
  10. Corinne says

    03/07/2015 at 2:42 am

    So beautiful! Water, wildlife, and wandering…is there anything better?

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      03/11/2015 at 7:05 am

      I think not!

      Reply
  11. Kristin says

    03/31/2015 at 8:30 am

    Oh my goodness it so is. I went back and stayed for 10 days last month and just fell in love with it all over again.

    Reply
  12. Gary says

    05/26/2017 at 8:56 pm

    Been to SA twice, going to try to make Namibia & SA this year to, u know they say Cape Town is the most beautiful city in the world…The Garden Rt. On the east coast is beautiful & Kroger National Park to

    Reply
    • Kristin says

      05/29/2017 at 7:32 pm

      I agree with that statement, but my favorite spots are actually in the Eastern Cape!

      Reply

Stay Connected

  • Home
  • About
  • Contact Me
  • Archives
  • Privacy Policy and Disclaimer

© 2025 · Be My Travel Muse. All Rights Reserved

footer-icon