Patagonia is for hikers. Though the weather is crazy, the region is remote, and trails can be rough, it’s one of the most impressive places to do long-term treks thanks to all of the crazy rock formations and glaciers. Seriously, there are a lot of both.
I spent 2 months in Patagonia, hopping between Argentina and Chile, and I don’t even know how many glaciers and waterfalls I must have seen during that time. I stopped counting. That’s how incredible the scenery in Patagonia is.
After doing countless hikes, these are my top ten favorites for those exploring Patagonia, in order from north to south:
Tronador
Difficulty: Medium
Length: 36km, overnight
At the north end of Patagonia in Argentina, the Tronador hanging glacier trek is an excellent introduction to the region. If you’re starting up there like I did, don’t miss this hike. The trail starts after a 2-ish hour bus ride from the nearby town of Bariloche, popular for skiing in the winter.
The beginning runs through a forest and is pretty easy until getting to a steep and winding portion called the caracoles. After that, the climb is mostly on rock and though long, the trek is not extremely difficult. There’s a refugio at the top where you can sleep for the night (book ahead in Bariloche at Club Andino!), or tote your own tent and camp. Watching the stars over the glacier is truly a spectacular sight. Read more about Bariloche and the hike here.
Refugio Frey
Difficulty: Medium
Length: One day
The time it takes to do this hike and the difficulty can really vary, since there are several ways to get to the Refugio Frey. You can take the ski lift up to the Condor lookout then boulder for a few hours, straight up then straight down, in order to reach the refugio, or you can take the forest path, or some combo of the two.
I love bouldering so I bouldered in and walked through the forest path back out, creating a loop. This hike is doable in one day but beware the steep and narrow path to the boulders for those who don’t like heights. It even had me shaking a bit and I don’t mind them at all!
Cerro Castillo
Difficulty: Medium
Length: One day
This used to be a multi-day trek from just outside of Coyhaique along the Carretera Austral, but these days they’ve opened up the ’emergency route’ from the town of Villa Cerro Castillo that sits just at the base, and allow hikers to go up the steep trail that takes only one day.
The Cerro Castillo, with its aqua-blue glacial lake and black rocks covered in white glacial ice would be a treat in and of itself, but the views in every direction of the painted mountains and canyons that lead to and away from Villa Cerro Castillo are absolutely stunning as well.
If you find yourself here, meet a gaucho and go on the hike. It’s an excellent way to spend a day.
Exploradores Glacier
Difficulty: Medium
Length: Depends – full day of trekking for at least 8 hours
Part of what makes Patagonia exciting is how recently certain parts of it have been made accessible. It wasn’t even until the late ’80s that one could drive all the way down the Carretera Austral, the mostly gravel road that runs through Chilean Patagonia. Towards the end of it, you’ll find Puerto Rio Tranquilo, the gateway to the Exploradores Glacier.
A local there who runs the tours told me that he only became aware of the glacier over the past five years, and that tours on it have only been going for the last couple. They last several hours and it requires climbing over rocks on the glacier moraine for quite some time before reaching the ice, but once you do, you’ll see ice caves galore. More on how to do it yourself here.
From Villa O’Higgins to El Chaltén
Difficulty: Easy
Length: Depends – 2 or 3 full days
This isn’t a typical hike, per se, so much as walking between two countries in no-man’s land. That makes this one of the most unique hikes in Patagonia and one you won’t see many others on.
This hike sits at the very end of the Carretera Austral, and requires a boat ride, which stops by the gorgeous O’Higgins Glacier, then goes onward to the most remote farm in Chile. Overnight there then get ready to hoof it for 22km into Argentina through no-man’s land.
Once you cross into Argentina, you have the choice to take a boat or to walk an additional 15km to where busses (or cars, if you fancy hitchhiking), can take you into the town of El Chaltén. Keep in mind you’ll be carrying all of your stuff with you for this one, so while it’s mostly flat, you’ll be loaded up and trudging through mud. If you want to give it a try, you can read all about the crossing here.
The Huemul Circuit
Difficulty: Strenuous
Length: 63km, 4 days
I won’t sugarcoat it, this is one of the toughest treks that I did in Patagonia. Parts of it are straight up and parts of it are straight down. For much of it, there is no real trail and it’s necessary to navigate by GPS. You’ll also need to bring a harness along to pull yourself across two rivers. This one ain’t for pansies!
All that said, this is one of only five trails in Patagonia that you can see the Southern Patagonian Ice Field from, and this view is worth it. Also, this is one of the least-crowded trails in all of Patagonia and while you won’t find any services or well-maintained campgrounds along the way, this is the real Patagonia and it’s incredible. Read more about the glacier lagoon and the Huemul Circuit here.
Fitz Roy
Difficulty: Mostly easy, then strenuous
Length: Full day
Do you recognize those rocks? This famous formation is on the label for Patagonia clothing, and is probably one of the most recognizable sights in Patagonia. Though this is a very famous trek, it’s definitely worth climbing to the top, despite the crowds, to see the Fitz Roy.
You can start the trek from the town of El Chaltén. Most of it is flat and lovely, until the final hour of the trek which is straight up a rocky trail. It will be strenuous, but it will also be worth it! Read more on the Fitz Roy (and the Torres noted below) here.
The Torres
Difficulty: Easy
Length: Depends – full day of trekking for at least 8 hours
Finally, an easy trek that you can take from the town of El Chaltén without having to plan an overnight or sore muscles the next day! I say above that the length depends because it’s possible to combine the Fitz Roy and the Torres to make it an overnight hike, or if you’re fit enough and leave early enough in the day, it’s possible to hit them both and return back to town for dinner.
Though the trek is mostly flat, it’s long, so make sure that you bring along lunch and plenty of snacks!
Las Pumas
Difficulty: Strenuous
Length: One day
This is yet another trail in Patagonia that will have almost nobody else on it, but this time it’s not just due to the difficulty (by the way, this is a very steep trail on rock that just goes straight up and can experience some seriously heavy wind), but also due to the fact that it’s private land. It belongs to the Hotel Las Torres but if you stay with them, you can take horses part way up and down (recommended to save your knees), and you get a view of the towers that almost nobody else sees.
The Circuit in Torres del Paine
Difficulty: Medium
Length: 120km over 8 days (avg.)
The crown jewel of long hikes in Patagonia, Torres del Paine is great to work up to if you’re going from north to south like I did. Each year this park gets exponentially more popular as trekkers discover that Torres del Paine in Chile is a worthy adventure, full of changing landscapes and a glimpse of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, especially from the full O circuit.
The trek takes about 8 days, give or take, and goes in a loop. If you’re short on time, it’s also possible to hike what’s known as the W, which shaves three days off of the trek and still shows you some amazing views, but none of the ice field, which was a special treat. Read more here on how to prepare for Torres del Paine and for 2019, I’m offering a women’s tour there! Click here to read more. If you’d rather not do 8 days, here are a few day hikes in Torres del Paine worth checking out.
So are you convinced yet to head to Patagonia? Though it’s not the easiest place in the world to hike, it’s definitely one of the most picturesque and impressive.
If it’s your first time hiking through, be sure to check out my guide to trekking in Patagonia, read up on what to pack, and check out my itineraries for one week, two weeks, and one full month in Patagonia.
Happy hiking!
Rebecca Hoffmann says
Hi there,
Great informative post and amazing pictures! Will for sure plan some trekking/hiking when visiting Patagonia.
Ijana says
So many amazing Patagonia posts! I would seriously not mind if Patagonia is all you wrote about for the rest of time 😀 I may just have to follow your exact itinerary through this bit of the world one day because I want to do every single thing you wrote about.
Kristin says
I’m out of things to say about it now 🙁 I’ll need to go back I guess 🙂
Kristin says
I really liked the Tronador but that’s two days. I also enjoyed the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre quite a bit.
Maria Abud says
Hi, Is a great blog, indeed, I hike all those places and there is a great destination called Cochamo, In Chile. Which I go frecuentarlo with clients who want to go across the andes to Argentina. Is a must!
Anne says
This looks absolutely stunning! I spent awhile looking at photos of Patagonia and it’s definitely a Bucket List destination for us. I just hope that there are enough trails and places to visit for those of us who can’t really make it through a rough 20 miles route? I think I can comfortably manage 5 miles but not sure about much longer… I really do want to see these amazing places though!
Kristin says
Most of the hikes I did are long and can be difficult but there may be more options 🙂
Jen says
Hi and thank you!
I will be doing a Spanish language immersion program in Buenos Aires for two weeks. Following that I would like to go with an organized group to hike Machu Picchu and to “hike in Patagonia” (I know it’s a large area!). Would you recommend I hike in Patagonia first, and then head up to Machu Picchu (instead of doing Buenos Aires then M.P. then Patagonia?). And what would be the one amazing Patagonia hike to do that is as close as possible to Buenos Aires? Thank you again…!!
Kristin says
You could head to Bariloche: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/things-to-do-in-bariloche/
Jana says
Hi, I really like your blog!
When you did the Huemul Circiut, did you do it on your own or with a guide? I’m traveling on my own and I don’t want to do it by myself, do you know if there are companies in Patagonia I can to the circiut with?
Thanks <3
Kristin says
You can definitely do it with guided groups. I did not have a guide, and actually met a guy on the trail who started the trek on his own then asked if he could join up so that he wouldn’t be solo and of course Steve and I said yes. That was a gamble he took starting on his own, though.
Max says
Hey,
Great content and amazing hikes ! I am currently roughly following your route trough Patagonia, but I am not getting as lucky as you with the weather 🙁 On all of the pictures you have awesome weather and gret views. I just get rain and clouds haha. Unfortunaly I couldn’t see neither Cerro Castillo nor the Fitz Roy.
How did you manage to always have perfect weather ? Was it just pure luck, did you sometimes wait for good forecasts or even went multiple times for the same hike ?
Cheers !
Kristin says
Hey Max, since I spent 2 months there I waited it out when the weather was bad. I had 10 days in El Chalten and hiked for 6 of them. I did also just get very lucky!
Maria Abud says
Hi MAx. The best time to visit Patagonia in my view is March,. I live in Patagonia, born In Argentina and I can recommend early December or March, still very good weather and less tourists, Although the climate is changeable and unpredictable.
anthea says
Hello there, I loved reading this article!
Was wondering – for those treks that you’ve mentioned did you do them as day trip, camping? Solo or with hired group? I’m a solo female traveller doing my first big trip to South America July-December and I’m hoping to cut costs by hiking and trekking solo, maybe camp as well 🙂 of course, this is my first trip so safety and not getting lost in wilderness is of top concern
Thank you!
Kristin says
Hi Anthea,
I never did a group or hired a guide for any of these Except for the Exploradores Glacier because you really need one when glacier trekking as they know where the crevasses are. I noted on each one how long it took. Some were day trips and some were more like 4 or even 8 days. I was with my friend Steve so I wasn’t solo but on every trail except for the Huemul Circuit, there were plenty of other people so you won’t be hiking alone!
Owen says
Awesome coverage of the hikes. I have been in Patagonia for 1 month and am still here. Sadly, I hurt my knee on the third day of the W trek, returned on the 4th day, missed out the Torres. When I attempted Fitz Roy a week later, just 5 minutes from the top, there was a snowstorm, it was extremely windy and slippery and everyone had to turn back. Patagonia hasn’t been kind to me 🙁 Bad knee = missing out on pretty much the whole Patagonia haha.
Kristin says
Ah, I can imagine Patagonia gets more and more difficult as it gets snowy and icy! Definitely do some stuff on boats then! Visit glaciers without having to hike 🙂
Gerald says
Hello Kristin,
Love your blog! Using it alot to plan our trip!
You mentioned that the Huemul Circuit is one of the five treks with views of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field. We’re really keen on getting views of the ice field but the Huemul Circuit looks really challenging! Could you share what the other treks are? Thx!
Kristin says
You can see it from the O in Torres del Paine as well! Less challenging: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/torres-del-paine-circuit/
Olivia Chen says
Hi Kristin,
Thank you for sharing all the beautiful inspirational pictures and details about your favorite hikes.
Can you tell me more about how I can do The Torres & Fitz Roy in one day? I was planning on doing the W-circuit and taking a bus to El Chalten to do a Fitz Roy day hike.
Thank you.
Olivia
Kristin says
Sure, there’s a part in the trail where the two connect but that doesn’t meant the Torres in Chile it means the Torres out of El Chalten. They have the same name.
Travel with Malin says
Awesome post!! Going to Patagonia in one month and this is awesome!!!
Rachel says
I spent february and march in Patagonia. Your posts were very helpful, especially about the hikes around Bariloche and Torres del Paine and along the Carreterra Austral! I didn’t make it all the way to Higgins but it was quite an adventure! Chile stole my heart. As a solo female traveller it gave me a lot of confidence to do it on my own. So thanks again for that! Looking forward to new posts!
Kristin says
Amazing! Thanks so much for coming back to tell me! I’m glad that you went and had a blast. Patagonia is so amazing.
Rose says
awesome post! Argentina is home to some beautiful spots, but it can get crowded and expensive (especially torres del paine) I just finished an article about free trekking near bariloche incase any other travelers in Argentina are looking for some outdoor adventure. check it out 🙂
Kristin says
Wouldn’t you know TdP is in Chile, then?
Anonymous says
Ohhhhh we did laugh tremendously didn’t we Joffers
Anna says
Hi
All sound so wonderful!
My husband and I will be in Beunos Aires and would love to make it to Patagonia just for a few days and do a hike or two. We are moderate hikers from Northern California, and would be interested in some 8 Mile hikes. Any suggestions? And where would we fly into for the hikes.
Thanks!
Anna
Kristin says
Maybe look at Bariloche then! https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/things-to-do-in-bariloche/
I love El Chalten too but you’re looking at much longer than 8 miles for almost all of the hikes.
James Ingersoll says
Thanks for the information! Based on what i read, I will take in the ice caves. I will take your word when you say this is much better than Grey. I look forward to leaving for Chile in 3 days. I just miss my Minnesota winters so much, I need to find one.
Kristin says
If you mean Exploradores YEAH that glacier was soo cool! I’ve hiked on a few since and none had those awesome ice caves. Have a blast.
Kate Daly says
Hey! Your Patigonia blog is being a lifeline for me planning my trip for 2 months to the area. I was wondering if you could give me any ideas though. I have these 2 months off work and really want to feel like I’ve achieved something out there with the time. All the hikes like the o and the Huemul look amazing and am so keen to do but what I want to combine is a real journey rather than lots of things I could really do on holiday.
Walk from a town to another for 2 weeks or something if you get my drift….
Any help appreciated!! Xxxxx
Kristin says
Then I bet you’d love the Carretera Austral: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/patagonia-hitchhiking-guide/
Eze says
Thanks for the advices trek, it definitely worth reading. Can you recommend an equipment ? Do you think it’s possible with a tarp ?!
Thank you !
Kristin says
Gosh that would be so cold! I have suggestions here: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/how-to-prepare-for-trekking-in-patagonia/
Sam says
Hi guys,
Does anyone have some tips for the best 4-5 day trek, up to 5-6,000 metres? Ive done a fair few hikes/light climbs around that before. Or maybe a combo of two treks, doesnt really need to be high.
Thanks very much
Sam
Kristin says
thankfully Patagonia is low elevation! You could turn a lot of the hikes in El Chalten into at least an overnight or 3-day trek: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/el-chalten-hiking-guide/
The W in Chile is just the shorter version of the O and can be 5 days: https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/torres-del-paine-circuit/
Rob says
Thanks Kristin – it looks truly wonderful. I am trying to plan some treks like this in Patagonia myself. Lots of tour companies organise (expensive) organised treks that can be booked months in advance. My preference, however, would be just to go to the area and do the treks on the spur of the moment that are appropriate to the current weather conditions etc.. Is it common to meet up with other like-minded people in the main hubs (e.g. Bariloche) and just decide to trek together? E.G. Are there local hiking clubs running lots of treks daily/weekly etc? I’m just trying to avoid the hit-and-miss business of organising treks from afar. regards. Rob
Kristin says
You should be able to meet others to hike with. Stay in hostels instead of hotels and it’ll be easier.
Charles says
Hey Kristin! Thanks for the amazing article. I am planning a trip to Patagonia in February and am very excited for all the different trekking options. I did have one question though – the Las Pumas hike that you mentioned…I can’t seem to find much information about it. I was wondering if you could let me know where the starting point of the hike begins. If I plan on doing the O circuit, does it make sense to add one additional day at the beginning or end of the trek at the Central or Chileno campgrounds in order to fit the hike in? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you, Charles
Kristin says
To do Las Pumas you have to be a guest at the Hotel Las Torres, which is probably why you didn’t see much about it. The trail is on their private property.
Charles says
Got it! Appreciate the quick response and thanks for all the great info you have up on the site
Karen Peabody says
My wife and I do a lot of backpacking and will be there for 1 week was wondering what suggestions you have
Brooke says
Thank you so much for all the great information, I can’t wait to plan a trip and hike these mountains, thanks!