As this post goes live I’m sitting on a bus from Johannesburg bound for Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. If I’m honest, I’m kind of terrified.
I keep telling myself it will be fine but honestly, I have no idea what lies ahead of me.
I woke up to a strange message a week and a half ago, “I can’t go with you,” it said, “A woman came floating outta nowhere and stole my heart.”
It didn’t come as a massive surprise. J and I had always had one of those connections that you could just feel down to your very core. He constantly referred to it as ‘energy’ and I couldn’t argue – that’s exactly what it felt like. There was a magnetic pull that I resisted intently at first,Β butΒ eventually couldn’t ignore. I didn’t want another impossible romance, but thought maybe this time, I can just enjoy the moment, so that’s what I did.
I left swearing I would just let it be where it was, beautiful and sweet, but too short.
Except we were both very bad at leaving it where it was. We kept in contact. There were times I tried to pull away but he pulled me back in. I told myself just to be casual about it. To just see where it might lead, whether that was somewhere or nowhere.
J always spoke of the amazingness of Mozambique – the intensely blue water, the gorgeous landscape, and the laid back vibe. Other South Africans I spoke with echoed his words. They all took on the same tone of voice, stars in their eyes, and their words elongated when they spoke of its beauty.
“Moooozambique!” They would say, entranced.
After months of waffling back and forth, I decided I owed it to myself to give it a try – not J, necessarily, but the place and the adventure. Whatever may or may not happen with us was just a bonus if not a big question mark.
He promised we’d go together no-matter what. It seemed perfect.
Except I started to feelΒ a disconnect in the days before his message came through. It’s like theΒ wavelengths, without any sign of weakening or gradually tapering off, just stopped cold. I was ready for the newsΒ to come, I could feel it. This is the story of my life, after all.
How could I be mad at him? We hadn’t seen each other in months, and it’s not like I loved the guy. Between me and someone who is there, standing in front of him, it’s no real contest. I would have made the same choice.
He continued that he’d wrestled with the guilt for the whole two weeks he’d known her (love? That soon? Hm, OK), and offered that the three of us could go together! Why not, right? Three peas in a pod.
IΒ didn’t have to think about that one for too long. I told him I wished him well, but three’s a crowd, and I’d be going this one alone.
Besides, I wasn’t going back to Africa for anyone but me.
After the disappointment subsided over the next ten hours, surprised that was all it took, anΒ unwelcomeΒ feeling started to creep in and replace it: dread.
J is a 6’4 South African guy who used to live in Mozambique. I was happy to tag along. I liked the idea of traveling with someone else for once, especially someone with whom I got along so easilyΒ and who really knew the country well. We’d had such awesome-sounding plans and I was pretty excited.
But those are gone with the wind now.
Now I have to start from square one.
This isn’t a pity party. There are worse things in life than having to travel somewhere beautiful alone, I know.
Rather, it’s a confession: I get nervous before I travel solo, too. In fact I get nervous almost every single time.
Southeast Asia wasn’t uncharted territory, and Europe is hardly intimidating. I knew of plenty of women who had traveled to those places on their own. I couldn’t actually think of anywhere, save for a couple of specific places,Β I’d been to in the past that hadn’t been traveled by someone I knew or at least knew of.
However I’mΒ not going to shy away and cancel my plans. Not because of some dude. No way. I’ve been saying lately in my newsletters that I haven’t done anything that made me feel badass lately, and maybe this is just what the doctor ordered. Maybe it’s exactly what I need to do to feel inspired and challenged again.
I haven’t been able to find much of anything written by a solo female traveler who went to Mozambique.
So I guess it’s time that someone went there and wrote something.
I guess that someone is me.
Wish me luck.
Sarah says
Thank you for such an open and honest post. I wish you all the luck in the world on your solo trip. I can identify with the romance aspect you are sharing also, alot of the time its just about the travel but love is something that is not easy when your dream is to travel. Trust me, I know. Ive been a traveller and an expat for nearly 18 months now and it sure can be lonely, you meet people that you feel a strong connection with and they touch your soul then leave. Its hard. But I would rather have that touch no matter how short because eventually that connection, that touch will be so strong both parties will do what they have to do to make it work. In the mean time I focus on my friends, family, and doing things I love – especially travel xx
Kristin says
True and that’s why I was so ready to just accept it for what it was then and there and just let it go when I got that message. It’s the tough part that comes with this traveling lifestyle but you know, it’s still worth it. I really agree.
Nathan says
Im sure you’ll have just as brilliant a time on your own!
Mozambique is definitely on my list for when I start travelling so I look forward to reading about your experience – have a fantastic time!
Anonymous says
My favorite blog post so far.
Liz says
Hey Kristen,
First I would just like to say thank you for being so open with your readers.
I can sort of relate to the feeling, I’ve had something similar happen to me before.
But at the the same time, there is huge excitement in knowing you’re about to embark on a solo adventure and that when you finish you will have grown in ways you can’t even predict. I am sure you will have an amazing and unforgettable time in Mozambique, can’t wait to hear all about it.
Peace and love,
Liz π
Kristin says
Thanks for your kind comment! I definitely find being open makes me feel less alone and the support is always so encouraging, so I’m glad that there’s still someone to share the journey with in a way π
shilpi says
Best of Luck, Kristin….you are awesome.
Kristin says
Thank you <3
Ashley says
Love it! Although it’s a bummer you found out about this change of plans late in the game, what a wonderful adventure to now have!
Can’t wait to read more about it!
Nicole says
I’m sure you will have a brilliant time in Mozambique. I was just there last month and had a great time. It’s hard work getting around but I’m sure you will manage. Visited Vilanculos, Bazaruto, Tofo and Maputo. Early morning buses I have to say and didn’t spend much time in Maputo. Have fun!
Kristin says
Thanks for the suggestions! I’m thinking I may hitchhike around rather than the busses. Might be easiest. Will see.
Janey Mae says
Stay Safe! You will have an amazing time i’m sure!
All the people i met while travelling through Africa were so lovely as i’m sure you already know π
Take it all in your stride, you will have an amazing time and i can’t wait to read your adventures and follow you through them all π
xo
Kristin says
Thank you so much, Janey. You’re right about the hospitality here and lovely people. I’m enjoying it immensely so far.
Preeti says
Just read your post and by now you in Maputo or somewhere else enjoying the Mozambique culture and life. I have travelled Maputo alone and I found ppl to be helpful and more and more mozambicians are learning English. Just don’t drive you bound to be pulled over for a bribe. Have a wonderful journey.
Kristin says
Maputo was such a fun night for me, and now I’m in Tofo and loving it. Thanks for the advice! It’s similar to what I’ve heard.
Helen says
You’re gonna love it! π x
Marta says
Ahhh, that explains it! I just saw a photo on FB and was surprised that you did not mention Mozambique beforeβ¦.
Anyways – Kristin, GOOD LUCk. ALL WILL BE GOOD just keep your head on your shoulders (as you always do). I understand you are nervous but as you said – time to be badass. I am looking forward to all the awesome photos, posts and such.
M
Kristin says
Thanks so much for the encouragement. It’s been great so far and I’m looking forward to the rest of my time here and especially writing about it!
jon says
Helene’ is an amazing lady that I met in Namibia this summer, and has been traveling since. She has a great set of stories and pictures from Mo that you can just hit ‘Translate this’ to get the gist. I’m sure she’d also be very kind with sharing any of her adventures along the way.
https://www.facebook.com/hsalaun44
Kristin says
That’s an awesome resource thank you!
Anna says
A beautifully honest post – there’s something so freeing (and inspiring for others) about admitting that something scares you and doing it anyway. Looking forward to reading more!
Kristin says
Thank you. I definitely still get nervous and now that I’m here I can see that it’s not that hard and everything is going to be fine, sometimes it’s just a bit nerve-wracking because you don’t know what you don’t know. That’s why I had to go anyways!
Em says
Hey, we were staying in fatimas in Tofo Mozam but moved now to turtle cove in tofo. We know J and the girl from coffee bay. If you want to talk about it we can crack the code for you.
Emily and Emilie
Kristin says
The Emilys? We’ve met π
Also, I don’t really care what he’s doing at this point.
Saxon says
Hi Kristin,
I am also a solo female traveller- been at it since 2013. I just found your blog, and I’m so glad I did. I’m heading to South Africa in 5 days, and I’m very excited. I will be spending a couple of months up in Limpopo, then visiting a friend in Zimbabwe, after that exploring beautiful Mozambique in March. I look forward to following you!
Saxon
Kristin says
You’re going to have an amazing time! Just returned and have to say, I love Africa more and more with every moment spent there.
Kaleena's Kaleidoscope says
It’s so awesome that you went anyway! I would have done–and felt–the same thing. Boyfriends on the road can be so tricky (I’m learning the hard way with my travel relationship right now) and it sucks when they don’t work out and you’re left up shit creek like that, but something great is going to come of it, that’s for sure. Even if it’s just getting your “badass” groove back. π Hope you’re having the best time of it.